October 4, 2013
So last night after talking with my sister and parents I decided that this is going to be the end of my hike for the year. It just isn't worth sitting in a motel room for who knows how much longer waiting to feel better. So, this morning I am ticketed for a bus to Albuquerque and from there will fly back to Portland.
This is certainly not the way I wanted to end my hike. In fact the only way I thought my hike would end is when I arrived at the Mexican border. I hate the feeling of not finishing something I set out to do, especially in light of all the other obstacles already overcome along the way. At times it seems to me that this is such a lame reason to stop, but then I realize that my health is probably the best reason there is to stop. Doesn't make it suck any less though. I'm hoping to get back to New Mexico next April to finish the remainder of the miles. Anyone interested in a little 450 mile hike?
As for the actual "travel" today, things did not go as planned. I got to the Greyhound bus pickup place an hour early as recommended by Greyhound and began the waiting game. The bus was scheduled to pick me up at 8:45 and get to Albuquerque at 10:15, leaving me plenty of time to get to the airport for my 5pm flight, right? Wrong. At 9am I called to see what the status of the bus was and it turns out it broke down in Flagstaff and was running 4.5 hours behind. No big deal, that's why I left myself so much extra time. I called periodically to check on the bus and around 12:40 the Greyhound guy in Gallup thought it was only 10-15 minutes away, and I suppose it was, but for some reason that I cannot understand and no one was able to explain to me, the bus never showed up in Grants and went straight through to Albuquerque. WTF. The folks at Greyhound assured me that the next bus (8pm) would definitely stop in Grants. Thanks. What the hell is the point of buying a ticket the night before if the stupid bus doesn't even show up! I thought I was buying assurance the bus would actually be there, even if it was running late. Guess I need to learn more about how business "works." So I called and changed my flight to tomorrow morning instead for an additional $150. Needless to say I never plan on taking Greyhound again if I can at all avoid it. And if I can't, then I'm going to make sure I leave an extra 24 hours between the scheduled arrival time and when I actually need to be somewhere.
After more waiting around the bus finally did arrive and I made it to Albuquerque and then from the bus station to the airport. And so begins another waiting game until tomorrow morning. Here's hoping for smooth sailing through the skies and feeling better soon.
Alex
Friday, October 11, 2013
Thursday, October 3, 2013
October 1-3, 2013
October 1-3, 2013
Zero days in Grants, NM
On Monday the Mumms took me over to the clinic where I was able to be seen by a doctor. He basically concluded that I have a case of gastroenteritis, which could be due to any number of viruses or bacteria and due to the mild nature of my symptoms the best course of action is just to let it run its course, taking pepto bismol as needed. He also said that if I am still having issues in another week then I should return to a doctor for further tests.
So, the past few days I haven't been doing much of anything other than eating more yogurt/probiotics to try to get the good bacteria to take over my gut once again and knock out the bad guys.
My stomach still isn't feeling any different really so I don't really know what I'm going to do. I feel ridiculous just staying in a motel waiting for this thing to pass, but I don't feel like I really have any other options at this point. Ugh. I'm even considering ending my hike because I really can't see hiking another 400+ miles with this stupid stomach thing.
Alex
Zero days in Grants, NM
On Monday the Mumms took me over to the clinic where I was able to be seen by a doctor. He basically concluded that I have a case of gastroenteritis, which could be due to any number of viruses or bacteria and due to the mild nature of my symptoms the best course of action is just to let it run its course, taking pepto bismol as needed. He also said that if I am still having issues in another week then I should return to a doctor for further tests.
So, the past few days I haven't been doing much of anything other than eating more yogurt/probiotics to try to get the good bacteria to take over my gut once again and knock out the bad guys.
My stomach still isn't feeling any different really so I don't really know what I'm going to do. I feel ridiculous just staying in a motel waiting for this thing to pass, but I don't feel like I really have any other options at this point. Ugh. I'm even considering ending my hike because I really can't see hiking another 400+ miles with this stupid stomach thing.
Alex
September 30, 2013
September 30, 2013
Grants, NM to Zuni Canyon Road
4 miles
After breakfast and taking care of some town errands, Huck and I made it to the McDonalds on the edge of town to have a final snack before leaving Grants. I definitely should not have eaten there given my recent stomach issues but my hiker sensibilities led me to order food regardless. No bueno. My stomach felt terrible immediately afterward and we ended up sitting there for at least two hours while I hoped my stomach would return to normal or at least feel a bit better.
Around 2pm, my stomach still feeling bloated, I decided to at least give hiking a try for a few miles. We headed out and made it down the road to wheeler the trail headed away from the road and I decided that it wasn't a good idea to hike out still feeling off so I headed back to toward town while Huck continued up the trail. It was a tough decision to make but hiking has just been unpleasant and I can't enjoy the experience when I am constantly focused on the current state of my stomach.
I ended up calling the Mumms who came and picked me up and took me back to the motel. They are also going to take me to the medical clinic tomorrow to get checked out to see what's going on with my GI tract. Thank goodness for the Mumms.
Alex
Grants, NM to Zuni Canyon Road
4 miles
After breakfast and taking care of some town errands, Huck and I made it to the McDonalds on the edge of town to have a final snack before leaving Grants. I definitely should not have eaten there given my recent stomach issues but my hiker sensibilities led me to order food regardless. No bueno. My stomach felt terrible immediately afterward and we ended up sitting there for at least two hours while I hoped my stomach would return to normal or at least feel a bit better.
Around 2pm, my stomach still feeling bloated, I decided to at least give hiking a try for a few miles. We headed out and made it down the road to wheeler the trail headed away from the road and I decided that it wasn't a good idea to hike out still feeling off so I headed back to toward town while Huck continued up the trail. It was a tough decision to make but hiking has just been unpleasant and I can't enjoy the experience when I am constantly focused on the current state of my stomach.
I ended up calling the Mumms who came and picked me up and took me back to the motel. They are also going to take me to the medical clinic tomorrow to get checked out to see what's going on with my GI tract. Thank goodness for the Mumms.
Alex
September 29, 2013
September 29, 2013
24 miles
Today I felt surprisingly good for the most part and the miles went by fairly quickly while listening to audiobooks. Part of the road walk into town went right past a New Mexico State Prison.
Once getting to town Huck and I went to a grocery store to get some snacks and then called the Mumms, Hugo and Carole. While at the store we had an interesting conversation with a guy named Eli, who at first seemed normal, but as his stories were told it became clear that he was not. He is apparently a reincarnation of the prophet Elijah who was sent to save the world. Great news! Also, as of Thursday the universe began to shrink rather than expand. He told us to check out his website, which isn't up yet but will be in the next week or so. Ok Eli.
After that strange encounter we walked over to the Mumms to say hi. They provide water caches at various places along the trail, as well as shuttle hikers around the town of Grants. They invited us to stay for dinner of pizza and beer, so of course we stayed and also had the chance to learn about the surrounding area from the Mumms. They are very knowledgable and still get out nearly every weekend to explore somewhere new, finding petroglyphs and ruins of ancient cultures.
My stomach felt pretty good most of the day but my appetite is still a little lacking. Hopefully tomorrow it will be back.
Alex
24 miles
Today I felt surprisingly good for the most part and the miles went by fairly quickly while listening to audiobooks. Part of the road walk into town went right past a New Mexico State Prison.
Once getting to town Huck and I went to a grocery store to get some snacks and then called the Mumms, Hugo and Carole. While at the store we had an interesting conversation with a guy named Eli, who at first seemed normal, but as his stories were told it became clear that he was not. He is apparently a reincarnation of the prophet Elijah who was sent to save the world. Great news! Also, as of Thursday the universe began to shrink rather than expand. He told us to check out his website, which isn't up yet but will be in the next week or so. Ok Eli.
After that strange encounter we walked over to the Mumms to say hi. They provide water caches at various places along the trail, as well as shuttle hikers around the town of Grants. They invited us to stay for dinner of pizza and beer, so of course we stayed and also had the chance to learn about the surrounding area from the Mumms. They are very knowledgable and still get out nearly every weekend to explore somewhere new, finding petroglyphs and ruins of ancient cultures.
My stomach felt pretty good most of the day but my appetite is still a little lacking. Hopefully tomorrow it will be back.
Alex
September 28, 2013
September 28, 2013
30 miles
Oh man, last night was a bit rough. My stomach was rumbling all night and I had to get up in the middle of the night to poo. From then on I couldn't even fart for fear of sharting. I took an anti-diarrheal med in the morning and that seemed to kick in after a few hours and I started to feel better. Unfortunately I still had very little appetite all day and I'm sure I've been at a calorie deficit since leaving Ghost Ranch.
The hiking today included an 18 mile road walk followed by a climb up the shoulder of Mt Taylor where I'm camped tonight. Nothing too spectacular in the way of views, but pretty easy walking overall.
I'm really looking forward to getting to Grants tomorrow and hope this stomach thing finally goes away. It would be great to get to enjoy the last few hundred miles of the trail!
Alex
30 miles
Oh man, last night was a bit rough. My stomach was rumbling all night and I had to get up in the middle of the night to poo. From then on I couldn't even fart for fear of sharting. I took an anti-diarrheal med in the morning and that seemed to kick in after a few hours and I started to feel better. Unfortunately I still had very little appetite all day and I'm sure I've been at a calorie deficit since leaving Ghost Ranch.
The hiking today included an 18 mile road walk followed by a climb up the shoulder of Mt Taylor where I'm camped tonight. Nothing too spectacular in the way of views, but pretty easy walking overall.
I'm really looking forward to getting to Grants tomorrow and hope this stomach thing finally goes away. It would be great to get to enjoy the last few hundred miles of the trail!
Alex
September 27, 2013
September 27, 2013
~25 miles
Today was not particularly fun in any way. It rained off and on for most of the morning, and when the rain stopped, a nice strong wind picked up where it left off. This was again in addition to my stomach feeling like crap all day. Having GI issues makes it very difficult for me to enjoy the hiking lately. Ayayay. If this thing doesn't go away by Grant I'm going to need to see a doctor I think. Bummer.
The hiking did go through some pretty cool badlands type terrain today, but I was miserable enough that I didn't bother taking pictures.
Alex
~25 miles
Today was not particularly fun in any way. It rained off and on for most of the morning, and when the rain stopped, a nice strong wind picked up where it left off. This was again in addition to my stomach feeling like crap all day. Having GI issues makes it very difficult for me to enjoy the hiking lately. Ayayay. If this thing doesn't go away by Grant I'm going to need to see a doctor I think. Bummer.
The hiking did go through some pretty cool badlands type terrain today, but I was miserable enough that I didn't bother taking pictures.
Alex
September 26, 2013
September 26, 2013
Cuba, NM to ???
25 miles
Today's hiking was again very mellow and actually pretty cool once the paved road walk at the beginning of the day was taken care of. It was primarily along the edges of various mesas providing great views of the surrounding area as well as the rocks of the mesa itself at times.
My stomach issues continued today, perhaps in part due to the greasy gut bomb of a burrito I had for breakfast. Not a good choice. It seems that my stomach started to feel better towards the end of the hiking day, but I'm not fully convinced I've seen the end of this trail tummy.
Alex
Cuba, NM to ???
25 miles
Today's hiking was again very mellow and actually pretty cool once the paved road walk at the beginning of the day was taken care of. It was primarily along the edges of various mesas providing great views of the surrounding area as well as the rocks of the mesa itself at times.
My stomach issues continued today, perhaps in part due to the greasy gut bomb of a burrito I had for breakfast. Not a good choice. It seems that my stomach started to feel better towards the end of the hiking day, but I'm not fully convinced I've seen the end of this trail tummy.
Alex
September 25, 2013
September 25, 2013
??? To Cuba, NM
25 miles
Again today my stomach was not happy with me which made it a challenge to enjoy hiking. The essentially consisted to a long gradual climb through the San Pedro Peaks Wilderness to the "peaks" themselves, and then back down the other side and finished off with a road walk into Cuba. The trail goes literally right through Cuba along hwy 550. Not the most fun walking, but convenient for resupply.
Huck had gone ahead at the end of the day to make it to the PO before closing while I lingered and took a break a few miles outside of town. Once in town, I stopped at El Bruno's Mexican restaurant, which was actually kind of disappointing and probably not a good idea with whatever stomach stuff is going on. After eating I found Huck and we ended up splitting a room for the night at the Del Prado motel, a klassy establishment.
Still hoping this stomach thing will go away!
Alex
??? To Cuba, NM
25 miles
Again today my stomach was not happy with me which made it a challenge to enjoy hiking. The essentially consisted to a long gradual climb through the San Pedro Peaks Wilderness to the "peaks" themselves, and then back down the other side and finished off with a road walk into Cuba. The trail goes literally right through Cuba along hwy 550. Not the most fun walking, but convenient for resupply.
Huck had gone ahead at the end of the day to make it to the PO before closing while I lingered and took a break a few miles outside of town. Once in town, I stopped at El Bruno's Mexican restaurant, which was actually kind of disappointing and probably not a good idea with whatever stomach stuff is going on. After eating I found Huck and we ended up splitting a room for the night at the Del Prado motel, a klassy establishment.
Still hoping this stomach thing will go away!
Alex
September 24, 2013
September 24, 2013
27 miles
Ghost Ranch to ???
The hiking today was nice and mellow. It was also some pretty cool scenery hiking along the road to Skull Bridge and then through the Rio Chama Wilderness, before climbing up out of the canyon and back into the shady shelter of ponderosa pines. The weather was also quite pleasant. A little brisk in the morning and warm in the afternoon, but not too warm. In the evening it cooled off once again and I am cowboy camping for the first time all trail! The sky is perfectly clear and there are no bugs are to be found anywhere. So far New Mexico has been very cool and I hope the trend continues.
On another matter, my stomach has felt a bit off all day today. I'm not sure what it is, but hopefully whatever it is will resolve itself by morning. It's not terrible, but it is uncomfortable.
Alex
27 miles
Ghost Ranch to ???
The hiking today was nice and mellow. It was also some pretty cool scenery hiking along the road to Skull Bridge and then through the Rio Chama Wilderness, before climbing up out of the canyon and back into the shady shelter of ponderosa pines. The weather was also quite pleasant. A little brisk in the morning and warm in the afternoon, but not too warm. In the evening it cooled off once again and I am cowboy camping for the first time all trail! The sky is perfectly clear and there are no bugs are to be found anywhere. So far New Mexico has been very cool and I hope the trend continues.
On another matter, my stomach has felt a bit off all day today. I'm not sure what it is, but hopefully whatever it is will resolve itself by morning. It's not terrible, but it is uncomfortable.
Alex
September 23, 2013
September 23, 2013
Zero day at Ghost Ranch
After some contemplation last night and this morning I decided to stay yet another day at Ghost Ranch and plan to hike out with Huck tomorrow morning. In order to make sure I link my footsteps, Henry was nice enough to give me a ride up to where I hitched a ride to Ghost Ranch so that I might walk back. That way when I leave tomorrow I can walk right out from the ranch.
After getting back from my morning walk, I lounged around for a while, read some magazine articles, and then met Huck and a couple of the staff members (Will and Cale) at the dining hall. Will was planning on going to the archery range in the afternoon and invited Huck and me to come along. The answer was an emphatic yes. It was awesome. Not only were there targets to shoot at, there were also two 4' tall piñatas. One was a one-eyed red monster and the other was Darth Vader. Oh man was it fun to shoot an arrow right through Darth's head.
After dinner (ribs!) We headed back to Will and Cale's place to hang out and drink some beer. Not a bad way to end the day. Tomorrow it really is back to the trail, after french toast of course.
Alex
Zero day at Ghost Ranch
After some contemplation last night and this morning I decided to stay yet another day at Ghost Ranch and plan to hike out with Huck tomorrow morning. In order to make sure I link my footsteps, Henry was nice enough to give me a ride up to where I hitched a ride to Ghost Ranch so that I might walk back. That way when I leave tomorrow I can walk right out from the ranch.
After getting back from my morning walk, I lounged around for a while, read some magazine articles, and then met Huck and a couple of the staff members (Will and Cale) at the dining hall. Will was planning on going to the archery range in the afternoon and invited Huck and me to come along. The answer was an emphatic yes. It was awesome. Not only were there targets to shoot at, there were also two 4' tall piñatas. One was a one-eyed red monster and the other was Darth Vader. Oh man was it fun to shoot an arrow right through Darth's head.
After dinner (ribs!) We headed back to Will and Cale's place to hang out and drink some beer. Not a bad way to end the day. Tomorrow it really is back to the trail, after french toast of course.
Alex
September 22, 2013
September 22, 2013
Zero day at Ghost Ranch
After a sprinkling of rain last night, things were dry in the morning as I got up to go to breakfast. It was a continental breakfast, nothing too fancy, but still hit the spot. Again I sat with the Hoppers and enjoyed their company.
After breakfast I sorted through my food and checked the forecast for the day. With thunderstorms in the forecast for the afternoon and evening, it was an easy decision to stay another night.
I had a nice chat with a volunteer in the trading post (store), another retired minister named John. And also a good conversation with one of the volunteers at the front desk, Mary. Everyone here at the ranch has been so kind and welcoming it is going to be a little sad to leave this wonderful place tomorrow morning.
While at dinner I reunited with the Hoppers and enjoyed another nice conversation over pizza and wings. Since they are taking off tomorrow to head back toward Pennsylvania, I asked if they would mind giving me a ride back to the trail and they agreed! Such nice people. One more meal with them tomorrow in the morning and then it is time to head back out and do what I'm out here to do: hike!
Also while at dinner a dirty, grungy looking guy walked into the dining hall and lo and behold it was Huck! Haven't seen that guy since northern Montana and it sure was good to see a familiar face. We caught up a bit in the evening and compared horror stories from the Weminuche. Since Huck is following the Ley maps for the most part, and I am following Bear Creek for the most part, I may or may not see much of him for the remainder of the trail, but hopefully we'll end up crossing paths again before the end.
Alex
Zero day at Ghost Ranch
After a sprinkling of rain last night, things were dry in the morning as I got up to go to breakfast. It was a continental breakfast, nothing too fancy, but still hit the spot. Again I sat with the Hoppers and enjoyed their company.
After breakfast I sorted through my food and checked the forecast for the day. With thunderstorms in the forecast for the afternoon and evening, it was an easy decision to stay another night.
I had a nice chat with a volunteer in the trading post (store), another retired minister named John. And also a good conversation with one of the volunteers at the front desk, Mary. Everyone here at the ranch has been so kind and welcoming it is going to be a little sad to leave this wonderful place tomorrow morning.
While at dinner I reunited with the Hoppers and enjoyed another nice conversation over pizza and wings. Since they are taking off tomorrow to head back toward Pennsylvania, I asked if they would mind giving me a ride back to the trail and they agreed! Such nice people. One more meal with them tomorrow in the morning and then it is time to head back out and do what I'm out here to do: hike!
Also while at dinner a dirty, grungy looking guy walked into the dining hall and lo and behold it was Huck! Haven't seen that guy since northern Montana and it sure was good to see a familiar face. We caught up a bit in the evening and compared horror stories from the Weminuche. Since Huck is following the Ley maps for the most part, and I am following Bear Creek for the most part, I may or may not see much of him for the remainder of the trail, but hopefully we'll end up crossing paths again before the end.
Alex
September 21, 2013
September 21, 2013
Mogote Ridge to Hwy 84 (Ghost Ranch)
20 miles
Today started the way the last couple have started... condensation/dew on the inside and outside of my tent. After the usual routine and after the sun had risen I was on the trail, that is to say, a dirt road. The majority of the day was on road hiking through a combination of cow grazing areas and clumps of pine trees. Along the way I crossed paths with a guy named Jesse on his four-wheeler checking out the current cattle situation, but mostly out enjoying himself. We chatted for a while and he gave me a breakfast bar and some ritz crackers. Yum! I have been packing too many sweet snacks of late and not enough of the salty variety so the ritz definitely hit the spot.
As I descended further down the road the pine trees became more plentiful for a while, until reaching Martinez Canyon. Somewhere through the canyon, I feel like I officially entered New Mexico. The temperature seemed to increase (probably just because it was after noon) and the water situation was a little bit more difficult. I can see that I am going to have to be more aware of water for the remainder of the hike and probably carry more than I think I will need because more of the sources shown on the map are bound to be dry this time of year.
Once at the highway it took a little while to get a hitch, but I was able to make it to Ghost Ranch with plenty of time left in the day to get set up camping (first night free! normally $19/night) and secure my meal tickets for both dinner and breakfast. This was of utmost importance to me. I also received a package from my sister's family, the Egle clan! So many new treats to try, I guess I'll just have to get rid of some of MY snacks in favor of theirs. Thank goodness!
Dinner did not disappoint and I enjoyed a large helping of chicken marsala with noodles and side of green beans. So nice to eat real food for a change. I also enjoyed the company and conversation of a retired couple here to relax. The Hoppers, who live in Pennsylvania, have been here about a week relaxing and going on some hikes in the area. Henry is a retired Presbyterian minister and Allison a retired floor nurse who worked on med/surg and psychiatric floors during her career. It was great to have real conversations about something deeper than the weather and exchanging pleasantries.
After dinner it was off to do laundry. Can't wait to see what's for breakfast!
Alex
Mogote Ridge to Hwy 84 (Ghost Ranch)
20 miles
Today started the way the last couple have started... condensation/dew on the inside and outside of my tent. After the usual routine and after the sun had risen I was on the trail, that is to say, a dirt road. The majority of the day was on road hiking through a combination of cow grazing areas and clumps of pine trees. Along the way I crossed paths with a guy named Jesse on his four-wheeler checking out the current cattle situation, but mostly out enjoying himself. We chatted for a while and he gave me a breakfast bar and some ritz crackers. Yum! I have been packing too many sweet snacks of late and not enough of the salty variety so the ritz definitely hit the spot.
As I descended further down the road the pine trees became more plentiful for a while, until reaching Martinez Canyon. Somewhere through the canyon, I feel like I officially entered New Mexico. The temperature seemed to increase (probably just because it was after noon) and the water situation was a little bit more difficult. I can see that I am going to have to be more aware of water for the remainder of the hike and probably carry more than I think I will need because more of the sources shown on the map are bound to be dry this time of year.
Once at the highway it took a little while to get a hitch, but I was able to make it to Ghost Ranch with plenty of time left in the day to get set up camping (first night free! normally $19/night) and secure my meal tickets for both dinner and breakfast. This was of utmost importance to me. I also received a package from my sister's family, the Egle clan! So many new treats to try, I guess I'll just have to get rid of some of MY snacks in favor of theirs. Thank goodness!
Dinner did not disappoint and I enjoyed a large helping of chicken marsala with noodles and side of green beans. So nice to eat real food for a change. I also enjoyed the company and conversation of a retired couple here to relax. The Hoppers, who live in Pennsylvania, have been here about a week relaxing and going on some hikes in the area. Henry is a retired Presbyterian minister and Allison a retired floor nurse who worked on med/surg and psychiatric floors during her career. It was great to have real conversations about something deeper than the weather and exchanging pleasantries.
After dinner it was off to do laundry. Can't wait to see what's for breakfast!
Alex
Saturday, September 21, 2013
September 20, 2013
September 20, 2013
Hopewell Lake to Mogote Ridge
~30 miles
Another great weather day by the sun! Everything seemed to go right today. Even with getting a later start than yesterday the miles seemed to come easy, partially due to a loooong (but easy) road walk. I dropped down below 9,000' for the first time in a while and saw, as well as smelled, some ponderosa pines.
On the mental side of things, I am definitely starting to feel loneliness creep in. I spend a good portion of my day listening to music or books, and sometimes singing to myself. I also have a tendency to make things a challenge or race in this case. Not that Mexico is going anywhere (at least that in aware of), but I seem to be in a rush to get there.
This is going to sound crazy but I extended my rest breaks from 10 minutes every 2-2.5 hours to 20 minutes and it made a world of difference in my experience. I know 10 minutes doesn't sound like enough, and you are totally right. In fact I bet 20 minutes doesn't sound like all that much either, but it was very nice! This change came about due to a song I was listening to with the lyric, "the secret of life is enjoying the passing of time." This reminded me of what a lady named Mary said to me when in Warner Springs a mere 110 miles into the PCT, "if you're not having fun, you're doing something wrong." Right on, Mary. Right on. Sometimes I just need a little reminder.
September 19, 2013
September 19, 2013
Road spur to just past Hopewell Lake
36 miles
So again last night I had the pleasure of a two hour raging thunderstorm that kept me awake. I'm going to blame it on Colorado as a parting gift, something to remember Colorado by.
The morning was again foggy, but after a couple hours it lifted and I enjoyed sunshine for most of the day! Dare I say it, but I think I may have literally weathered the storm and hopefully the weather of today is an indicator of the future. The hiking was pretty good today as well. Things already seem much more mellow than Colorado, which I can't say I'm upset about.
It felt good to get in a solid day of hiking once again. I didn't end up getting to camp until the full moon had begun to rise from behind the trees. I am thoroughly spent after a short night's sleep and the long day if hiking, but with clear skies tonight I will hopefully get a full nights rest as well.
Well done sun, keep up the good work!
September 18, 2013
September 18, 2013
Trail Lake to somewhere in New Mexico!
~26 miles
Oh what a night. I awoke around midnight to the first rumblings of thunder and some rain pattering on my tent. The weather intensified over the next half hour and between the bright flashes of lightning, the incredible cracks of thunder, and hail assaulting my thin tent roof I didn't get back to sleep until around 4am.
When I did get going in the morning everything was shrouded in fog. The first couple miles were agonizingly slow due to the trail being all but non existent with only cairns to guide the way. With the addition if the fog, it sometimes took a few minutes to find the next cairn. Around midmorning the trail became more apparent and the clouds lifted, along with my spirits. Things were going just fine until the fog returned, along with some wind and rain. It brought back bad memories if the previous section, and coupled with the lack of sleep, I was not a happy camper. Around noon things cleared up a bit and the sun even peaked out occasionally.
The highlight of the day was definitely crossing the state border into New Mexico. However exciting it may be, it was also fairly anticlimactic. Not much seemed to change and it even rained on me within a couple hours. Come on New Mexico, give me sunshine!!
September 17, 2013
September 17, 2013
Elwood Pass to Trail Lake
~32 miles
Unfortunately due to being rushed by the rain last night I set up my tent on a bit of a slope. It made for a difficult nights sleep, lots of rolling around, but overall it could have been worse, at least I was dry. It was a slow start this morning and I still feel like I'm getting back into the groove of things after a few days off.
There was quite a lot of up and down along or near the divide. Fortunately the weather cooperated and I didn't get rained on all day! It feels like its been a long time since that has happened and I hope for more of the same for the last miles in Colorado.
I have definitely begun a countdown in my mind and am ready, at the very least, to be out of Colorado, although the Mexican border would be better. I've also started thinking more about life after the trail including nursing school applications, but just general life stuff as well. I am feeling the pull of civilization and all the creature comforts that come along with it. I also look forward to getting back into running again. So much faster and I don't have I carry a backpack.
It was only 6pm when I decided to call it a day, but with more than thirty miles under my belt I feel OK with it. After getting set up I crawled into my sleeping bag right away. It seems that the weather is finally cooling off, at least at 12,000'. Other reasons to look forward to New Mexico are the lower elevations and warmer temperatures. Almost there! Just 22 miles to go!
September 16, 2013
September 16, 2013
Wolf Creek Pass to Just past Elwood Pass
18 miles
After some thunderstorms rolled through last night, the morning was calm and the sky overcast. I took my time getting ready, and even considered taking another zero day, but after 4 days in Pagosa Springs I just couldn't let myself do it. If I stayed any longer I might have never made it back to the trail.
I checked out at 10:30 and hit the sidewalk to try getting a hitch. It only took about a half hour until a girl in a Subaru pulled up. Shannon rolled down the window and told me she thought I was someone else. Apparently I am the spitting image of one of her NOLS instructors from Alaska, and even though I wasn't who she thought I was she gave me a ride to the pass anyway.
The first few miles were definitely a readjustment back to hiking. It amazing how fresh my legs felt after a few days off and also how strange it felt when I first started again. Of course the fact that I'm carrying 6.5 days of food probably had something to do with the readjustment. And as a welcome back present from Mother Nature I even had a nice little rain shower within the first hour.
The trail followed the divide today and as the clouds parted in the afternoon I had some great views, including down the San Juan River back to Pagosa Springs. Around 6 just after getting to Elwood Pass it started to sprinkle and it looked like more on the way so I found a spot and set up for the night. Soon after getting situated the rain intensified and the lightning and thunder began. Despite the four days in town, I feel like I'm right where I left off weather-wise. Maybe it wouldn't have hurt to stay one more day in Pagosa... Oh well, too late now. I'll just hope it's a passing storm and in the morning it will be clear.
September 14-15, 2013
September 14-15, 2013
Zero days in Pagosa Springs
What a lazy couple days. The forecast wasn't favorable and so it made my decision to stay on Pagosa to rest up an easy one. I really did not do much more than eat, lay in bed, and watch some TV. I felt like a lump so I worked up a draft of an essay for nursing applications. If nothing else it made me feel a little better about sitting around all day.
Tomorrow it's back to the trail. Time to get some miles going again and make it to Mexico!
September 13, 2013
September 13, 2013
Zero day in Pagosa Springs, CO
After sleeping in I again went to the Colorado Cafe for breakfast, then to a bakery for dessert, and back to the motel to pack up my things. I moved out of my room and up the road to a less expensive place, the Pinewood Inn. The owners are very friendly and it looks to be a fine place to take a zero.
After checking in I headed a little further up the road to do laundry and pick up a few miscellaneous items. I also stopped into an outdoor store and purchased some real rain pants. I have been using a combination of Montbell wind pants and a rain kilt/skirt for my lower half, but I was really wishing I had proper rain pants during the cold, wet weather so I should be set. Of course now that I've bought them I probably won't need them. I'm perfectly OK if that is the case.
By the time I made it back to the inn it was mid-afternoon and I was getting hungry so I got a large pizza and some beer and settled in for the evening, feeling good about having my chores completed. Nothing quite like eating a whole pizza in one sitting and feeling perfectly good about it. Just one of the many joys of being a thru hiker.
September 12, 2013
September 12, 2013
Wilderness boundary to Wolf Creek Pass
3 miles
I was a bit restless last night, eager to get to town to dry everything out and soak in the hot springs. I slept in a bit and made it to the pass around 7:45. After 1.5 hours of sticking my thumb out I finally got a ride. The guy I got a ride with lived somewhere between Pagosa and Durango and was on his way back home from work. He works two weeks at a time in North Dakota (oil drilling I think) and then has two weeks off. Nice guy, definitely a country guy, but very nice.
Once in town I made my way to the hot springs resort area and left my bag at the motel before heading to get some breakfast. The it was back to the motel and a dip in the hot springs. Amazing. It was sunny and there was a pool full of warm water, both things a sight for sore eyes.
In the afternoon I walked up to the library to upload blog posts and pictures followed by taking care of my resupply shopping. Then it was to Riff Raff Brewing for happy hour and sampling some of their delicious brews. Afterwards I spent the remainder of the night relaxing in my room. It's good to be warm and dry!
Thursday, September 12, 2013
September 11, 2013
September 11, 2013
The Knife to the Weminuche Wilderness Boundary
33 miles
Again I awoke to the sound of rain on my tent. It was exactly the sound I did not want to hear. I rolled over and went back to sleep hoping it would be better when I woke back up. It wasn't. I knew I needed to get at least halfway to the pass today so at 7:45 despite the weather I was up with all my soggy clothes on and hiking.
The weather for the morning was much the same as yesterday, but a bit milder. In fact, there were a few times the sky brightened, and along with it my hopes, before darkening again and returning to rain.
Around noon things really did start to improve as the sun actually peaked out from behind the clouds and gave me back my shadow! It was off and on with the clouds and sun and rain for a while until the rain actually stopped and the sun won the day. It was glorious! I have never been so happy to see the sun. For the first time in two days my clothes dried out and it was grand. The hiking in the afternoon was pretty mellow, first a little up, then a little down. I was definitely pushing the pace as much as I could to get as close to the highway as possible. I'm somewhat sad to say that I didn't actually get many views the past couple days due to the weather and staring at the ground while hiking as fast as I could manage, but I guess I'll just have to put this on my list of places to come back to in the future.
Tonight I am less than 3 miles from the pass and can actually hear some vehicles down below. Normally I wouldn't like the sound, but it is quite comforting knowing that I am so close and will be in town tomorrow. I have had to ration and stretch my food I make it last an extra day so I am eager to eat a giant breakfast once in Pagosa.
September 10, 2013
September 10, 2013
North Fork Pinos River to just past The Knife
17 miles
Did I mention I'm tired of rain? Well take that sentiment and multiply it because today really takes the cake when it comes to rain. In fact, in all my years of hiking, this was the worst day I can remember.
I woke up without an alarm at 5:30 and of course it was raining. I thought to myself, "no big deal, I'll just wait for it to stop." Nope. At 7am I could tell that the rain wasn't going anywhere, yet I needed to, so I packed up and set off regardless. Within a half mile I was back on the divide and the light rain that was falling down below was even worse up higher, and there was wind as well! Oh the joy. There were a few moments when I let out screams of frustration/anger/pain/sadness. The first time it happened I didn't even mean to, in fact I kind of startled myself when it happened. It was definitely cathartic and probably kept me from crying a time or two. I suffered through the 9.5 miles to Squaw Pass where I decided to take a break, set up my tent, and crawl in my sleeping bag to warm back up. I ended up staying there for three hours, seriously considering staying there the rest of the day, until the rain let up a bit and I got myself up and going once more at 2pm.
After another 8 miles and a few more yells of frustration I again was cold, wet, and thoroughly demoralized so I set up my tent again to repeat the process, this time with no intention of getting up to hike again today. I had planned to be about 12 miles from Wolf Creek Pass tonight so I could get there with plenty of time to hitch a ride and enjoy the hot springs. Instead, I have another 35 miles to the pass, which, at the rate I managed today, will take me another two days. I am seriously hoping for a break in the weather tonight or tomorrow morning so I can get to the pass tomorrow night. Otherwise it is going to be a very long couple of days. And to think, I chose to be out here... What was I thinking.
September 9, 2013
September 9, 2013
Bear Creek to Headwaters of North Fork Pinos River
25 Miles
About a mile into hiking today I entered the Weminuche wilderness. This continuation of the trail through the San Juans certainly did not disappoint. There was an air of mystery about many of the peaks this morning due to clouds shrouding the tops of them. At one point as I was descending along Valencia Creek a peak rose in front of me looking as if it might go on forever. There is certainly a different look and feel to a place when part of it is hidden from view. Something a little wilder.
Around noon I stopped to take a break as well as air my tent out a bit to see if it would dry from the rain that fell off and on throughout the night. Sure enough, even with cloudy skies my tent was drying out quite well. I was about to pack it up when it decided to rain. So instead of packing up I ducked inside to wait out the shower. An hour or so later things seemed to be better and my tent was almost dry again so I packed up and moved on.
After another good bout of hiking, including close up views of 'The Window' and Rio Grande Peak and descending along the Rincon La Vaca Creek, I was about a mile from where I was going to take a break when all of a sudden the sky opened up again and let loose. I ran to take cover under a tree, but as the intensity of the rain increased I decided to set up my tent again. After crawling inside the dry confines I again waited, this time 45 minutes, for the thunderstorm to pass through.
I was able to get in a couple more hours of hiking after the second squall before setting up camp in some trees a few hundred feet below the exposed divide. Based on recent events I fully expect another onslaught of rain before morning. Needless to say, I am sick and tired of all these Colorado thunderstorms! I do love the mountains, but enough is enough, get me outta here! I am ready for the lower elevations and more rolling terrain of New Mexico even if it means having to deal with warmer temps.
And in the meantime I am really looking forward to the hot springs at my next stop in Pagosa Springs. Definitely in need of a mental recharge.
September 8, 2013
September 8, 2013
?? To Bear Creek
33 miles
Despite the long rest yesterday and a good nights sleep I wouldn't have minded staying in my sleeping bag another hour or two. But I didn't stay in my sleeping bag and instead got moving and back on the trail at 6:30. It seemed to be just in time as I got to see the sunrise within the first 20 minutes of hiking.
The majority of the day was spent on or fairly near the divide, dropping down a few times to cross water sources before climbing once again. The views today were spectacular from the 12,000' to 13,000' elevation where I spent most of the day. The San Juans are definitely one of my favorite areas of Colorado so far. Ridge after ridge of rugged mountain peaks, yet the trail is surprisingly easy to hike. Don't get me wrong, there are plenty of ups and downs, but it is well graded for the most part. The hardest part of the section is just the elevation at which it is located.
Early in the day I crossed paths with another hiker. I said good morning and smiled at him, but he was clearly not interested in any interaction with me as he stepped to the side with eyes averted and continued down the trail. It was a strange experience since it was the first time I failed to get any sort of response from a fellow hiker on the trail. I also met three Colorado Trail hikers today. There were two girls, Helen and Alex, who are recent college graduates and postponing getting a job by enjoying a hike. The third CT hiker I met later in the day, but he didn't seem all that interested in taking so it was a brief encounter. Just before dropping down to Bear Creek there was a sign indicating that the CDT and CT split to the south so that will be the last I will see of the CTers. It makes me wonder how many people I will end up seeing the rest of the trail since its after Labor Day and I'm no longer on sharing the CT. I guess only time will tell.
September 7, 2013
September 7, 2013
Spring Creek Pass to ??
6 miles
I think Dottie may have outdone her dinner last night with the breakfast spread prepared this morning. Scrambled eggs with cheese and salsa, bread for toast, fruit salad, cinnamon rolls, and peach cobbler, all homemade from scratch. Amazing.
After breakfast and getting packed up we headed to town for a stop at the Post Office and outdoor store before getting a short driving tour of the mining area of Creede up in the hills. It was interesting to see, especially some of the old building that they still use which are literally blasted into the rock. The only protruding part of some buildings was a roof over the porch. We then drove up some forest roads and got a better look at all the area that was burned by this year's fires. It was incredible to see how the fire had jumped in some places leaving trees untouched while others were reduced to black spindly matchsticks.
Once back to the trailhead we took some pictures and said our goodbyes. Lowell and Dottie headed back to Creede, Optimist and Stopwatch headed north on the trail, and I headed south.
By the time I started hiking again clouds were already building up with what looked like the makings of a coming storm. Sure enough, about 6 miles south of the pass thunder began rumbling, followed shortly by some light rain. As the rain intensified I decided to stop to put up my tent to wait out the squall. The precip turned from rain to hail and there were a few lightning flashes I could see that were separated from thunder by less than 2 seconds. The storm seems to have passed, at least for the moment, and I am debating whether or not I want to keep hiking even though it's only 4 o'clock. My body is feeling pretty drained of energy at the moment due to the big miles of the past few days and I'm not really concerned about having enough food to make it to Wolf Creek Pass. I guess I'll give it a little more time and if it looks clear than I'll hike a few more.
I decided to be lazy the rest of the day and just lay down, curled up, and rested for the afternoon. I'm hoping to be reenergized tomorrow morning and get in some solid hiking the next few days through the San Juans.
Saturday, September 7, 2013
September 6, 2013
September 6, 2013
Cochetopa Creek to Spring Creek Pass
~34 miles
After a rude awakening to my alarm this morning I packed up my belongings, said my "see you laters" to Bernie and Stacey, and headed on my way. The first 14 miles of the day followed the creek up the valley. Along the way I ran into a couple section hiking the CT, a man named David aka "the French guy", and a young woman named Bambi. I had brief conversations with them all before continuing on.
Once getting into the northern end of the San Juan mountains I came across two guys, probably in their 50's, doing a section of the Colorado Trail. Their names were Treesong and Dick (no trail name). Treesong makes custom guitars out of Denver, but you can find him online as well. His belief is that when you play a guitar made from a specific tree and type of wood, you feel the energy and song of the tree, which comes through the music played with the guitar. Not too far down the trail after a couple ups and downs I ran into an Eastbound CT hiker named Diode. He seemed like he might be an interesting character, as he hiked in Crocs, but I didn't talk to him all that long with my mission of getting to the pass before a thunderstorm could build and stop me from my goal.
I got a taste of what the San Juans will be like the next few days with ups and downs and a fair amount of exposed terrain, including hiking for 4 miles across Snow Mesa, just before dropping down to the pass. It was just in time too because a thunderstorm was behind me and had been gaining ground the last hour or so.
Once at the pass I looked to see if Optimist and Stopwatch were there before trying my luck at hitching a ride into Creede. As luck would have it, a car with Oregon plates pulled into the parking area about a half hour after after I arrived. Thinking it too much of a coincidence, I figured it must be the friends of Matt and Julie's who were picking them up. I approached the vehicle and as the window rolled down I asked, "are you here for the Urbanskis?" It turns out they were and invited me into the vehicle to stay dry while waiting for Matt and Julie. Lowell and Dottie Smith had no idea who I was, and I didn't really know who they were either, but with the Urbanski's in common we had a conversation until Matt and Julie arrived right at 6. Dottie even brought homemade cookies which she kindly offered and I gladly accepted.
I didn't really know how the evening would go from there, seeing as the Smith's weren't expecting a third person. I was prepared to spend the night at a motel, however, the hospitality of Lowell and Dottie was legendary and they invited me to stay the night. Dottie prepared a wonderful meal for us all and no one left the table unsatisfied. Quite a feat considering there were three hungry hikers to feed!
The Urbanski's had their own adventure getting to the pass at the predetermined time and managed to hike eighty-some miles in 35 hours with only 45 minutes of sleep last night. And I thought I had it rough!
Tomorrow it's sleeping in a bit, picking up new tips for my trekking poles at the PO, and getting a tour of the area ravaged by the fire that came through earlier this summer before heading back to the trail.
Alex
Cochetopa Creek to Spring Creek Pass
~34 miles
After a rude awakening to my alarm this morning I packed up my belongings, said my "see you laters" to Bernie and Stacey, and headed on my way. The first 14 miles of the day followed the creek up the valley. Along the way I ran into a couple section hiking the CT, a man named David aka "the French guy", and a young woman named Bambi. I had brief conversations with them all before continuing on.
Once getting into the northern end of the San Juan mountains I came across two guys, probably in their 50's, doing a section of the Colorado Trail. Their names were Treesong and Dick (no trail name). Treesong makes custom guitars out of Denver, but you can find him online as well. His belief is that when you play a guitar made from a specific tree and type of wood, you feel the energy and song of the tree, which comes through the music played with the guitar. Not too far down the trail after a couple ups and downs I ran into an Eastbound CT hiker named Diode. He seemed like he might be an interesting character, as he hiked in Crocs, but I didn't talk to him all that long with my mission of getting to the pass before a thunderstorm could build and stop me from my goal.
I got a taste of what the San Juans will be like the next few days with ups and downs and a fair amount of exposed terrain, including hiking for 4 miles across Snow Mesa, just before dropping down to the pass. It was just in time too because a thunderstorm was behind me and had been gaining ground the last hour or so.
Once at the pass I looked to see if Optimist and Stopwatch were there before trying my luck at hitching a ride into Creede. As luck would have it, a car with Oregon plates pulled into the parking area about a half hour after after I arrived. Thinking it too much of a coincidence, I figured it must be the friends of Matt and Julie's who were picking them up. I approached the vehicle and as the window rolled down I asked, "are you here for the Urbanskis?" It turns out they were and invited me into the vehicle to stay dry while waiting for Matt and Julie. Lowell and Dottie Smith had no idea who I was, and I didn't really know who they were either, but with the Urbanski's in common we had a conversation until Matt and Julie arrived right at 6. Dottie even brought homemade cookies which she kindly offered and I gladly accepted.
I didn't really know how the evening would go from there, seeing as the Smith's weren't expecting a third person. I was prepared to spend the night at a motel, however, the hospitality of Lowell and Dottie was legendary and they invited me to stay the night. Dottie prepared a wonderful meal for us all and no one left the table unsatisfied. Quite a feat considering there were three hungry hikers to feed!
The Urbanski's had their own adventure getting to the pass at the predetermined time and managed to hike eighty-some miles in 35 hours with only 45 minutes of sleep last night. And I thought I had it rough!
Tomorrow it's sleeping in a bit, picking up new tips for my trekking poles at the PO, and getting a tour of the area ravaged by the fire that came through earlier this summer before heading back to the trail.
Alex
September 5, 2013
September 5, 2013
Sargents Mesa to Cochetopa Creek
41 miles
The trail is often a tail of opposites from one day to the next. From cold rain and hail yesterday, to hot sun today. Fortunately the hiking was fairly easy, although water was a little harder to come by.
I ran into a CDT section hiker from Portland mid morning who mentioned there were a couple of SOBO CDT hikers not too far ahead. This was big news to me because I had been hearing there was a couple ahead of me for quite a while, but had not yet caught up to meet them. The information gave me additional incentive to get miles in today in an effort to catch them before Spring Creek Pass.
Getting toward the early evening hours, a couple miles after drinking the last of my water, I finally caught a glimpse of some hikers ahead of me. I was beginning think I wouldn't catch the other SOBOs but perhaps now I would! My first priority though was getting to the next water source as I was getting pretty thirsty. Fortuitously enough, the next water and meeting the other hikers happened simultaneously! They too had been without water for a while and were filling up as I made my way down to a fenced spring area to fill my platypus (water bladder). Bernie and Stacey were their names and they were from Bellingham, WA. We ended up hiking the next 5 miles together as well as camping in the same place for the night. It was great to actually have the company of others for the night and hold a conversation that lasted more than 15 minutes as when passing a hiker going the opposite direction. Bernie has hiked the AT and PCT twice, and the CDT once, so when he finishes at the Mexican border he will be a double-triple-crowner. Stacey has hiked each of the three trails once before and this will be her second time finishing the CDT, which they first hiked together 10 years ago. It sounds like it was a much more challenging experience since the trail was less defined then it is now and it was before the age of GPS. It was also Stacey's first long trail.. What a way to start! They gave me their contact information tonight and after a stop in Creede, CO tomorrow I hope that I will see more of them on the trail again. If not, then perhaps back in the Northwest.
Tomorrow it's another 33-34 miles to Spring Creek Pass and potentially meeting up with Optimist and Stopwatch. Here's hoping!
Alex
Sargents Mesa to Cochetopa Creek
41 miles
The trail is often a tail of opposites from one day to the next. From cold rain and hail yesterday, to hot sun today. Fortunately the hiking was fairly easy, although water was a little harder to come by.
I ran into a CDT section hiker from Portland mid morning who mentioned there were a couple of SOBO CDT hikers not too far ahead. This was big news to me because I had been hearing there was a couple ahead of me for quite a while, but had not yet caught up to meet them. The information gave me additional incentive to get miles in today in an effort to catch them before Spring Creek Pass.
Getting toward the early evening hours, a couple miles after drinking the last of my water, I finally caught a glimpse of some hikers ahead of me. I was beginning think I wouldn't catch the other SOBOs but perhaps now I would! My first priority though was getting to the next water source as I was getting pretty thirsty. Fortuitously enough, the next water and meeting the other hikers happened simultaneously! They too had been without water for a while and were filling up as I made my way down to a fenced spring area to fill my platypus (water bladder). Bernie and Stacey were their names and they were from Bellingham, WA. We ended up hiking the next 5 miles together as well as camping in the same place for the night. It was great to actually have the company of others for the night and hold a conversation that lasted more than 15 minutes as when passing a hiker going the opposite direction. Bernie has hiked the AT and PCT twice, and the CDT once, so when he finishes at the Mexican border he will be a double-triple-crowner. Stacey has hiked each of the three trails once before and this will be her second time finishing the CDT, which they first hiked together 10 years ago. It sounds like it was a much more challenging experience since the trail was less defined then it is now and it was before the age of GPS. It was also Stacey's first long trail.. What a way to start! They gave me their contact information tonight and after a stop in Creede, CO tomorrow I hope that I will see more of them on the trail again. If not, then perhaps back in the Northwest.
Tomorrow it's another 33-34 miles to Spring Creek Pass and potentially meeting up with Optimist and Stopwatch. Here's hoping!
Alex
September 4, 2013
September 4, 2013
Above Hunt Lake to just past Sargents Mesa
~34 miles
Got a nice early start this morning while the stars were out and made my way up to the divide for one of the most spectacular sunrises I have ever seen. No way to describe it, or even capture it in a picture (I tried). Some things are just better in person.
The first miles went by quickly and easily and I made it to the Monarch Crest Store at 8:15. After picking up my resupply, stuffing my face with food, and charging my phone and iPod I finally made it out at 10am.
Now for the crazy... It is almost exactly 100 miles from Monarch Pass to Spring Creek Pass where I will hitch into Creede, CO. My friends Optimist and Stopwatch are finishing a section of Colorado they had to skip because of a wild fire earlier this year. They too are planning on getting to the pass at the same time. When you ask?Friday evening. Just about 2.5 days to cover 100 miles. Crazy? Sure. Like a fox.
Speaking of crazy, the weather in Colorado has been insane. There was a good 4-5 hours today with some combination rain/hail/thunder, sometimes all at once. Fortunately most of the hiking during this period was under forest cover so I was able to continue on with little fear of getting struck by lightning. As it was pouring today two movie quotes came to mind. The first is from Braveheart when William Wallacw comes to call on the girl. It's raining fairly good and the father of the girl says, "you're going for a ride. In this?!" Gibson responds, "this is perfectly good Scottish weather. The rain is falling straight down, or slightly to the side-like." (Of course this is all said with a Scottish accent)
The second movie scene/quote was more general, from Forrest Gump. The scene when Forrest is in Vietnam and he describes all the types of rain. That's about how I felt today. But then it actually did clear off and was fairly dry by the time I set up my tent.
Here's hoping for another good hiking day tomorrow! The goal is roger at least 40!
Alex
Above Hunt Lake to just past Sargents Mesa
~34 miles
Got a nice early start this morning while the stars were out and made my way up to the divide for one of the most spectacular sunrises I have ever seen. No way to describe it, or even capture it in a picture (I tried). Some things are just better in person.
The first miles went by quickly and easily and I made it to the Monarch Crest Store at 8:15. After picking up my resupply, stuffing my face with food, and charging my phone and iPod I finally made it out at 10am.
Now for the crazy... It is almost exactly 100 miles from Monarch Pass to Spring Creek Pass where I will hitch into Creede, CO. My friends Optimist and Stopwatch are finishing a section of Colorado they had to skip because of a wild fire earlier this year. They too are planning on getting to the pass at the same time. When you ask?Friday evening. Just about 2.5 days to cover 100 miles. Crazy? Sure. Like a fox.
Speaking of crazy, the weather in Colorado has been insane. There was a good 4-5 hours today with some combination rain/hail/thunder, sometimes all at once. Fortunately most of the hiking during this period was under forest cover so I was able to continue on with little fear of getting struck by lightning. As it was pouring today two movie quotes came to mind. The first is from Braveheart when William Wallacw comes to call on the girl. It's raining fairly good and the father of the girl says, "you're going for a ride. In this?!" Gibson responds, "this is perfectly good Scottish weather. The rain is falling straight down, or slightly to the side-like." (Of course this is all said with a Scottish accent)
The second movie scene/quote was more general, from Forrest Gump. The scene when Forrest is in Vietnam and he describes all the types of rain. That's about how I felt today. But then it actually did clear off and was fairly dry by the time I set up my tent.
Here's hoping for another good hiking day tomorrow! The goal is roger at least 40!
Alex
September 3, 2013
September 3, 2013
Cow Creek to just above Hunt Lake
34 miles
After yesterday's big ups and downs, today seemed easy by comparison. There were a few ups and downs but it seemed to mostly fluctuate between 11,000' and 12,000', or thereabouts.
Not much eventful happened today. I was planning on doing about 40 miles today to make it a little easier to get to Monarch Pass store to pick up my resupply box when they open at 8am, but per usual a thunder shower passed through at just the wrong time. The last 7.4 miles before the pass are on the divide and I made it to 9 miles out by 6pm when the clouds decided to start rumbling with an accompanying shower of rain and hail as well. So I'm 8 miles short of the pass and will try to get going by 5:30am in an attempt to get to the store around the time they open.
I'm getting to a point (almost 2,000 miles in) where I am getting kind of antsy to get done. It might have something to do with the fact that the NOBOs are all finishing around this time, or the fact that I have spent so much time solo, or maybe just the shortening daylight hours. Whatever it is I'm feeling some sort of urgency.
Alex
Cow Creek to just above Hunt Lake
34 miles
After yesterday's big ups and downs, today seemed easy by comparison. There were a few ups and downs but it seemed to mostly fluctuate between 11,000' and 12,000', or thereabouts.
Not much eventful happened today. I was planning on doing about 40 miles today to make it a little easier to get to Monarch Pass store to pick up my resupply box when they open at 8am, but per usual a thunder shower passed through at just the wrong time. The last 7.4 miles before the pass are on the divide and I made it to 9 miles out by 6pm when the clouds decided to start rumbling with an accompanying shower of rain and hail as well. So I'm 8 miles short of the pass and will try to get going by 5:30am in an attempt to get to the store around the time they open.
I'm getting to a point (almost 2,000 miles in) where I am getting kind of antsy to get done. It might have something to do with the fact that the NOBOs are all finishing around this time, or the fact that I have spent so much time solo, or maybe just the shortening daylight hours. Whatever it is I'm feeling some sort of urgency.
Alex
September 2, 2013
September 2, 2013
Boswell Gulch to Cow Creek
34 miles
Today started with a bang. Right from the get go the trail took off uphill like a homesick angel toward Hope Pass. Having been up Hope pass once before you would have thought I knew what I was in for, but the memory of painful ups and downs fade more quickly than pleasant memories. It's about a 3,000-3,500' climb and then descent on either side, and the grade is not gentle.
The last time I went over Hope Pass I was heading the opposite direction while helping to pace a friend during the Leadville 100 mile trail run. This friend, Matt Urbanski, also happens to be hiking the CDT this year with his wife Julie. My second experience with Hope Pass made it pretty clear that I have no desire to run the Leadville 100. Not only do the runners go over Hope Pass, they do it TWICE. Talk about crazy. Matt finished the Leadville race in under 24 hours, thereby garnering one of the BIG belt buckles that are awarded to finishers. A smaller belt buckle is awarded to those who finish under 30 hours.
Later on in the day as I was starting the climb up my second 12,500'+ pass for the day I came across a group of hikers. They were from the Buena Vista and Salida areas just out for the day. After telling them where I was headed I got a high five and one of the ladies even took a video of me explaining what I'm doing to show her class when she returns to teach this fall. When asked if I got lonely on the trail I said that it can be, but interactions and conversations with folks such as themselves helped add to the social capital I carry with me.
It ended up being a nice day for hiking, no thunderstorms to contend with, so I was able to hike until sunset. I still have about 41 miles to go to get to Monarch Pass, so I won't make it tomorrow in time to pick up my package, but may aim to get close enough that I can roll in at 8am when they open the following day. Another awesome day in Colorado!
Alex
Boswell Gulch to Cow Creek
34 miles
Today started with a bang. Right from the get go the trail took off uphill like a homesick angel toward Hope Pass. Having been up Hope pass once before you would have thought I knew what I was in for, but the memory of painful ups and downs fade more quickly than pleasant memories. It's about a 3,000-3,500' climb and then descent on either side, and the grade is not gentle.
The last time I went over Hope Pass I was heading the opposite direction while helping to pace a friend during the Leadville 100 mile trail run. This friend, Matt Urbanski, also happens to be hiking the CDT this year with his wife Julie. My second experience with Hope Pass made it pretty clear that I have no desire to run the Leadville 100. Not only do the runners go over Hope Pass, they do it TWICE. Talk about crazy. Matt finished the Leadville race in under 24 hours, thereby garnering one of the BIG belt buckles that are awarded to finishers. A smaller belt buckle is awarded to those who finish under 30 hours.
Later on in the day as I was starting the climb up my second 12,500'+ pass for the day I came across a group of hikers. They were from the Buena Vista and Salida areas just out for the day. After telling them where I was headed I got a high five and one of the ladies even took a video of me explaining what I'm doing to show her class when she returns to teach this fall. When asked if I got lonely on the trail I said that it can be, but interactions and conversations with folks such as themselves helped add to the social capital I carry with me.
It ended up being a nice day for hiking, no thunderstorms to contend with, so I was able to hike until sunset. I still have about 41 miles to go to get to Monarch Pass, so I won't make it tomorrow in time to pick up my package, but may aim to get close enough that I can roll in at 8am when they open the following day. Another awesome day in Colorado!
Alex
September 1, 2013
September 1, 2013
Busk Creek to Boswell? Gulch
28 miles
I must have gotten a good nights sleep last night because I woke up without an alarm at 5am. I briefly thought about going back to sleep for another 15 minutes, but decide instead to get going and use the extra time to make some hot coffee.
On trail at 6am, the miles were some easy Colorado Trail miles through nice pine forest. The first 12 miles went by quickly and I soon found myself at a trailhead. After checking the map, I only had about 7 more miles to go to get to Twin Lakes! It was a nice surprise, as it was less than I thought it would be, and I felt renewed purpose to continue hiking.
Once in Twin Lakes Village I went to the general store to pickup my resupply and also enjoy some ice cream and cold drinks. The new owners at the store have some chairs and tables set up outside, apparently just for hikers, with a bottle opener and power strip conveniently located. I took advantage of both and enjoyed sitting down for a while.
Just as I was getting set to head out a rain shower deterred me and instead I wandered through the visitor center and then stopped in at the Twin Lakes Inn for a late lunch, just before they closed (2:30). I comfortably watched a couple showers pass through while enjoying a hot meal.
Towards the end of my hiking day after hiking around the Twin Lakes, I came across a family unit consisting of a mom, dad, and four young kids. The mom asked how far I was going, to which I responded, "all the way to Mexico." She said, "of course, I could tell by your look." She then told me she hiked the AT in 2000 where she met her husband and father of the four kids. It was a poignant moment as I could see a pang of jealous longing in her eyes, a longing to go back to the days she was on the trail or perhaps a longing to embark on another thru hike. Then the look left and she mentioned something about having a different kind of adventure (the family kind). It reminded me of just how lucky I am to be have this opportunity to hike the trail. Something I need to keep in mind on the difficult days when I question why I'm out here.
Alex
Busk Creek to Boswell? Gulch
28 miles
I must have gotten a good nights sleep last night because I woke up without an alarm at 5am. I briefly thought about going back to sleep for another 15 minutes, but decide instead to get going and use the extra time to make some hot coffee.
On trail at 6am, the miles were some easy Colorado Trail miles through nice pine forest. The first 12 miles went by quickly and I soon found myself at a trailhead. After checking the map, I only had about 7 more miles to go to get to Twin Lakes! It was a nice surprise, as it was less than I thought it would be, and I felt renewed purpose to continue hiking.
Once in Twin Lakes Village I went to the general store to pickup my resupply and also enjoy some ice cream and cold drinks. The new owners at the store have some chairs and tables set up outside, apparently just for hikers, with a bottle opener and power strip conveniently located. I took advantage of both and enjoyed sitting down for a while.
Just as I was getting set to head out a rain shower deterred me and instead I wandered through the visitor center and then stopped in at the Twin Lakes Inn for a late lunch, just before they closed (2:30). I comfortably watched a couple showers pass through while enjoying a hot meal.
Towards the end of my hiking day after hiking around the Twin Lakes, I came across a family unit consisting of a mom, dad, and four young kids. The mom asked how far I was going, to which I responded, "all the way to Mexico." She said, "of course, I could tell by your look." She then told me she hiked the AT in 2000 where she met her husband and father of the four kids. It was a poignant moment as I could see a pang of jealous longing in her eyes, a longing to go back to the days she was on the trail or perhaps a longing to embark on another thru hike. Then the look left and she mentioned something about having a different kind of adventure (the family kind). It reminded me of just how lucky I am to be have this opportunity to hike the trail. Something I need to keep in mind on the difficult days when I question why I'm out here.
Alex
August 31, 2013
August 31, 2013
Cooper Mtn to Busk Creek
36 miles
Today was a good day for a hike. The first bit of hiking was mostly a gradual uphill as I made my way through Searie Pass. The trail then leveled out for a while and I took the opportunity around 9:15 to set up my tent so it could dry out in the sun since things were a bit damp this morning from a combination of the rain last night and condensation inside my tent. Not long after my dry out break, I ran into three people doing a section of the Colorado Trail from Tennessee Pass to Copper Mtn. The trio consisted of a mother (Mrs. Chatterly), her son, and his girlfriend. We chatted for a while and they were offering me all kinds of things both food and non-food related. I did something I don't normally do and declined their offer because my food bag was still bulging with food for the next couple days. During the course of the conversation Mrs. Chatterly said if I was ever in Colorado Springs I should look her up and she would be happy to house me. She even took my picture because she said not many people stop to talk with them. Her son and his girlfriend also offered a place to stay if I was in Fort Collins, where they live and work for Otter Box. Such nice people! Encounters like that really make my day and put me in a good mood.
After that the trail meandered around and up a little more before descending through Kokomo Pass and continued down along a creek for a while. Eventually the trail headed up again toward Tennessee Pass. Once at the pass I was excited to see that there was indeed trail magic there for CT and CDT hikers! The trail magic is restocked by the Leadville hostel. Since it was the first box of trail magic I have seen since starting the hike I took full advantage and drank a Dr. Pepper, ate a bag of Cheetos, a package of Ho-Hos, and a moonpie. It was delicious. After that fuel up I continued down the trail.
With the weather as volatile as it has been I never really know how far I will end up hiking in a given day should a thunderstorm decide to strike. Fortunately today the clouds did little more than rain off and on, and I wasn't exposed on the divide either. Because that was the case I was able to get in a full day of hiking. It felt great to finally be able to hike all day again.
Tomorrow I will walk through Twin Lakes for a resupply and continue on down the trail. I am really enjoying the proper tread of the Colorado Trail through this section and look forward to the rest of it!
Alex
Cooper Mtn to Busk Creek
36 miles
Today was a good day for a hike. The first bit of hiking was mostly a gradual uphill as I made my way through Searie Pass. The trail then leveled out for a while and I took the opportunity around 9:15 to set up my tent so it could dry out in the sun since things were a bit damp this morning from a combination of the rain last night and condensation inside my tent. Not long after my dry out break, I ran into three people doing a section of the Colorado Trail from Tennessee Pass to Copper Mtn. The trio consisted of a mother (Mrs. Chatterly), her son, and his girlfriend. We chatted for a while and they were offering me all kinds of things both food and non-food related. I did something I don't normally do and declined their offer because my food bag was still bulging with food for the next couple days. During the course of the conversation Mrs. Chatterly said if I was ever in Colorado Springs I should look her up and she would be happy to house me. She even took my picture because she said not many people stop to talk with them. Her son and his girlfriend also offered a place to stay if I was in Fort Collins, where they live and work for Otter Box. Such nice people! Encounters like that really make my day and put me in a good mood.
After that the trail meandered around and up a little more before descending through Kokomo Pass and continued down along a creek for a while. Eventually the trail headed up again toward Tennessee Pass. Once at the pass I was excited to see that there was indeed trail magic there for CT and CDT hikers! The trail magic is restocked by the Leadville hostel. Since it was the first box of trail magic I have seen since starting the hike I took full advantage and drank a Dr. Pepper, ate a bag of Cheetos, a package of Ho-Hos, and a moonpie. It was delicious. After that fuel up I continued down the trail.
With the weather as volatile as it has been I never really know how far I will end up hiking in a given day should a thunderstorm decide to strike. Fortunately today the clouds did little more than rain off and on, and I wasn't exposed on the divide either. Because that was the case I was able to get in a full day of hiking. It felt great to finally be able to hike all day again.
Tomorrow I will walk through Twin Lakes for a resupply and continue on down the trail. I am really enjoying the proper tread of the Colorado Trail through this section and look forward to the rest of it!
Alex
August 30, 2013
August 30, 2013
Breckenridge to just South of Cooper Mtn Ski Resort
15 miles
Today was a nice easy day. Sort of. I took advantage of having hot water at my disposal and took another shower, followed by breakfast of French toast, eggs, toast, and tea, that was included in my stay at the Fireside Inn.
I failed to pick up new socks yesterday so I walked around town to find an open shop, then proceeded to head toward the bus station to get back to the trail, which I finally did at 10:30. Not the earliest start, but oh well.
It was a nice 2,500' climb over the first 7 miles or so, which would have been just fine, however, as I was nearing the top of the ridge a thunderstorm started to rumble. Again it was a race to get up and over before major weather hit. Once on the other side of the ridge I half ran and half walked trying to drop elevation, but the weather caught me and I enjoyed a healthy amount of rain and hail on the way down.
There were a fair number of other people also heading down to Copper Mtn including an older couple who were doing a day hike along the CT and a couple about my parents age that I ended up hiking with and talking to for about 5 miles into the resort. Ann and Don live in Breckenridge part of the year and spend the rest of their time other places. Ann is Swedish but has a place in London, while Don just finished a trans-America bike ride from Virginia to Florence, OR, averaging 60 miles a day. They were fun people to run into and even ended up buying me a croissant and hot chocolate once at the resort!
While at Copper Mtn I was also able to get ahold of my sister and FaceTime with her family in Michigan. I even saw the brand new baby, my niece, Amaya! It was great to see the Egle clan and I hope to get out there after finishing the hike to visit in person.
After that I headed back out into the light rain and hiked about a mile (maybe) before deciding to just set up camp and call it a day. It will be a couple of big days to get to Twin Lakes, but I'm hoping for better weather that will be conducive to hiking, i.e. no thunderstorms.
Alex
Breckenridge to just South of Cooper Mtn Ski Resort
15 miles
Today was a nice easy day. Sort of. I took advantage of having hot water at my disposal and took another shower, followed by breakfast of French toast, eggs, toast, and tea, that was included in my stay at the Fireside Inn.
I failed to pick up new socks yesterday so I walked around town to find an open shop, then proceeded to head toward the bus station to get back to the trail, which I finally did at 10:30. Not the earliest start, but oh well.
It was a nice 2,500' climb over the first 7 miles or so, which would have been just fine, however, as I was nearing the top of the ridge a thunderstorm started to rumble. Again it was a race to get up and over before major weather hit. Once on the other side of the ridge I half ran and half walked trying to drop elevation, but the weather caught me and I enjoyed a healthy amount of rain and hail on the way down.
There were a fair number of other people also heading down to Copper Mtn including an older couple who were doing a day hike along the CT and a couple about my parents age that I ended up hiking with and talking to for about 5 miles into the resort. Ann and Don live in Breckenridge part of the year and spend the rest of their time other places. Ann is Swedish but has a place in London, while Don just finished a trans-America bike ride from Virginia to Florence, OR, averaging 60 miles a day. They were fun people to run into and even ended up buying me a croissant and hot chocolate once at the resort!
While at Copper Mtn I was also able to get ahold of my sister and FaceTime with her family in Michigan. I even saw the brand new baby, my niece, Amaya! It was great to see the Egle clan and I hope to get out there after finishing the hike to visit in person.
After that I headed back out into the light rain and hiked about a mile (maybe) before deciding to just set up camp and call it a day. It will be a couple of big days to get to Twin Lakes, but I'm hoping for better weather that will be conducive to hiking, i.e. no thunderstorms.
Alex
Friday, August 30, 2013
August 29, 2013
August 29, 2013
6 miles North of Georgia pass to Breckenridge
26 miles
It was an early morning today. With my limited remaining food I wanted to get an early start and get to Breckenridge as soon as possible so I could binge on food!
The miles to Georgia Pass were a little dark and a little up/down along the divide, but once there it was smooth sailing along the Colorado Trail (CT) to Breckenridge. At the beginning of the shared trail section I ran into a CT hiker from Pagosa Springs, CO and gained some valuable intel about the bus from the pass into Breckenridge, most importantly that it was free! I love me some free public transportation, especially when it eliminates my need to hitch a ride.
My meager rations for the day included granola for breakfast (~500 calories), one CLIF Builder Bar (270 calories), one CLIF Bar (250 calories), two Nature Valley granola bars(2x 190 calories), and one packet of powdered Gatorade mix (~200 calories). Needless to say, it was not an ideal situation, especially when you need to hike 26 miles to get to more food. The last few miles I definitely felt sluggish. What's life without a little bit of a challenge?
Once in town I ate all but one slice if a large deluxe veggie pizza, complete with avocado. It was amazing and felt so good to feel completely full. After the food binge I made my way to the Fireside Inn where I procured a room for the night. Also staying at the inn were a couple of CT hikers, one going each direction. The older gentleman, Shamrock, was only doing a section of the trail, but was close to completing the entire thing. After finishing the section to Cooper Mtn tomorrow he was driving back to his home in Cheyenne, WY. The other hiker, Venture, was from Arizona and I'd guess he was about my age. He had about 100 miles left to get the the NE terminus on the outskirts of Denver. The three if us talked trail for a while before going a out our own business.
After taking care of my town chores, I reconnected with Venture and we walked down to the Breckenridge Brewery for a beer. Turns out, like most long distance hikers, he is an interesting guy. We talked about the high cost of housing and how much more economically one coil live out of a trailer or a van, the latter of which Venture was planning to do after finishing his hike. Apparently there is a subculture of folks who just park their trailers on National Forest land and live there rather than deal with house payments or rent. The idea is somewhat appealing to me in the freedom it allows. Similar to a hiker, it is easy to pick up and move from one locale to another without having to deal with selling a house or having a moving truck full of all your stuff. It would certainly provide a finite limit for possessions, perhaps not a bad thing, as long as my skis fit inside :)
Alex
6 miles North of Georgia pass to Breckenridge
26 miles
It was an early morning today. With my limited remaining food I wanted to get an early start and get to Breckenridge as soon as possible so I could binge on food!
The miles to Georgia Pass were a little dark and a little up/down along the divide, but once there it was smooth sailing along the Colorado Trail (CT) to Breckenridge. At the beginning of the shared trail section I ran into a CT hiker from Pagosa Springs, CO and gained some valuable intel about the bus from the pass into Breckenridge, most importantly that it was free! I love me some free public transportation, especially when it eliminates my need to hitch a ride.
My meager rations for the day included granola for breakfast (~500 calories), one CLIF Builder Bar (270 calories), one CLIF Bar (250 calories), two Nature Valley granola bars(2x 190 calories), and one packet of powdered Gatorade mix (~200 calories). Needless to say, it was not an ideal situation, especially when you need to hike 26 miles to get to more food. The last few miles I definitely felt sluggish. What's life without a little bit of a challenge?
Once in town I ate all but one slice if a large deluxe veggie pizza, complete with avocado. It was amazing and felt so good to feel completely full. After the food binge I made my way to the Fireside Inn where I procured a room for the night. Also staying at the inn were a couple of CT hikers, one going each direction. The older gentleman, Shamrock, was only doing a section of the trail, but was close to completing the entire thing. After finishing the section to Cooper Mtn tomorrow he was driving back to his home in Cheyenne, WY. The other hiker, Venture, was from Arizona and I'd guess he was about my age. He had about 100 miles left to get the the NE terminus on the outskirts of Denver. The three if us talked trail for a while before going a out our own business.
After taking care of my town chores, I reconnected with Venture and we walked down to the Breckenridge Brewery for a beer. Turns out, like most long distance hikers, he is an interesting guy. We talked about the high cost of housing and how much more economically one coil live out of a trailer or a van, the latter of which Venture was planning to do after finishing his hike. Apparently there is a subculture of folks who just park their trailers on National Forest land and live there rather than deal with house payments or rent. The idea is somewhat appealing to me in the freedom it allows. Similar to a hiker, it is easy to pick up and move from one locale to another without having to deal with selling a house or having a moving truck full of all your stuff. It would certainly provide a finite limit for possessions, perhaps not a bad thing, as long as my skis fit inside :)
Alex
Thursday, August 29, 2013
August 28, 2013
August 28, 2013
Grays Peak TH to just off the divide 6 miles North of Georgia Pass
22 miles
Today
started off awesome. Beautiful blue sky, a fourteener waiting to be
climbed, and fresh legs after a good nights sleep. The climb certainly
wasn't easy but man was it worth it. I met another guy at the top from
Portland East (Maine). He was out seeing some sights and showing his
buddies around, but apparently they all bailed on the climb the night
before, afraid of the altitude.
I thought
Grays Peak was going to be the hard part of the day. Boy was I wrong.
The ridge/saddle between Grays Peak and Mt Edwards turned out to be
harder than climbing Grays. Then there was a nice ridge walk before
dropping down from Argentine Pass to a valley, where I was able to get
more water, then a short downhill before heading back up to the divide
for another 14+ miles along the divide until hitting Georgia Pass and
descending to a valley once again. My legs were definitely feeling the
mornings climb(s) as the uphill to the divide was trying. Once back on
the divide, I wasn't. Turned out I took a wrong turn and ended up about
1/2 mile from where I should have been. After getting back on track it
was more up to over 13,000 again and rolling ups and downs along the
divide. It was exhausting.
After a few more
miles, and really wanting to get to Georgia Pass and off the divide, it
turns out the weather had other plans for me. Around 4:30 there was
thunder overhead and a bit of rain starting so I decided it was time to
find a relatively low spot (not directly on the divide) and wait out the
storm. Boy am I glad I set up my tent. There was lightning as close as 3
seconds away (.6 miles) and it has been hovering about 1 mile from me
since. It is now 5:45 and still raining so I think I'm going to just
call it a day and get an early start tomorrow. Colorado weather be
crazy. It leaves me with 26 miles to get to the road where there is a
bus I can catch into Breckenridge. It's going to be a bit right on fuel
(food) but I should make it just fine. I see a large pizza, giant salad,
and tub of ice cream in my future. At least for my first town meal :)
Haiku for Colorado:
So you have a plan?
Lightning flash, thunder crashes.
Better luck next time!
August 27, 2013
August 27, 2013
Bill Moore Lake to Grays Peak TH
33 miles
Today
started out just as I had hoped with clear blue skies and plentiful
sunshine. It also turned out to be a day of ups and downs, literally.
The first miles of the day took me from the basin where the lake was
located up along side Breckenridge Peak and then directly over Mt Flora
at 13,132'. Then after a short stint on the ridge, the trail descended
to Berthoud Pass (11,300'). Of course the trail then went back up to
Stanley Mtn, then dropped 1000', before climbing as it wound its way
around up and down along the divide to an unnamed peak at 13,215', then
dropped to around 10,300' at the Herman Gulch Trailhead. After a 6 mile
jaunt along a road, I finally made it to camp at the Grays Peak
Trailhead just before it started raining at 7:30.
Fortunately
I was able to take advantage of the sun this morning and dried out all
my gear. Hopefully it will stay that way tonight, but there is some
pretty serious rain accompanied by thunder and lightning once again. As
long as it clears up by morning I will be A-OK with the evening rain.
Also
of interest (to me at least) I have been thinking a lot about food, but
not in the usual thru-hiker manner. I finished listening to "In
Defense of Food" by Michael Pollan yesterday and it has become more
clear to me that the calories I consume while on trail can really not be
classified as food, at least not in the way that Pollan defines food.
Instead, I am merely providing fuel for my engine to continue hiking a
little further south each day, one mile at a time. Slightly depressing,
but the circumstance just makes me appreciate 'real food' even more when
I have the opportunity (usually in town) to enjoy it. I also seem to be
a little shy of calories this section (oops) so that isn't making all
this high elevation business any easier. Tomorrow, in fact, I will be
hitting the highest point on the trail, Grays Peak, at an elevation of
14, 270'.
August 26, 2013
August 26, 2013
Near Lonesome Peak to Bill Moore Lake
29 miles
The
weather in Colorado sure has been fickle. She's a beauty, but she must
know she's beautiful because she has some craziness (weather-wise) to go
along with the beauty. And we put up with the crazy to be in the
presence of her magnificence.
The day started
off about the same as any other, some mellow hiking. A little up a
little down and some walking along the divide. Just before descending
from the divide there was one more big up and over to accomplish. Of
course this was also when the clouds started to darken and crowd James
Peak where the trail was headed. It looked like there was a slight break
in the clouds so I decided to go for it. It seems that usually sooner
is better than later when it comes to threatening weather. About 200
vertical feet shy of the top I heard the first humble of thunder. By
that point after already climbing over 1000' I was committed and wasn't
going to turn around for anything short of lightning, which I hadn't
seen. I pushed myself at the fastest pace I could maintain in the thin
13,000' air. I made it up and over as the thunder sounded like it was
getting closer. Not long into the descent came the rain. This wasn't a
Pacific Northwest drizzle either, it was torrential rain sometimes
becoming a stinging hail. As the thunder crashed all around me (I never
saw lightning) and the trail turned to a brown river I continued to
descend through a fog bank with only the faint appearance of the next
cairn and the trail immediately under my feet to guide me. After
dropping about 1500' the storm seemed to have passed by and the rain
lightened up a bit. A mile or two further down another storm rolled
through drenching me once again. Just before this second drenching I saw
something that was perhaps more terrifying than the storm. Around a
small bend in the trail I saw the back end of a cougar running down the
trail ahead of me. Far enough not to be terrifying, but closer than I
ever really like to be to that large of a cat.
After
a couple hours without rain it has once again returned and I can see
flashes of lightning and hear the rumble of thunder from the relatively
safe confines of my tent. From what I remember of the forecast today was
supposed to be the worst for T-storms and I'm hoping that's the case.
Amazing how a thunderstorm can make me appreciate the sun. Here's hoping
for sunny skies in the morning!
August 25, 2013
August 25, 2013
Grand Lake, CO to Near Lonesome Peak
20 miles
Per
usual I had a hard time getting myself to leave town. The 10am checkout
was my deadline so I started hiking then. The first miles of the day
were nice and flat following the East side of Grand Lake, then Shadow
Lake Reservoir, Columbine Bay, and then Grand Bay. It was kind f fun to
see people in boats in the various lakes waterskiing, wake boarding, or
just enjoying the nice day. Reminded me a little of going out on Oswego
Lake with the Trumbulls.
The part just after
Grand Bay, up and over Knight Ridge, was a total nightmare. Downed trees
everywhere along and across the "trail", although I would have been
hard pressed to find the trail for a good portion of that mess.
After
getting through the worst of it, the hiking was pleasant once again as I
dropped down toward the South end of Arapaho Bay. After a short road
walk the trail found it's way along Monarch Lake before ascending the
ridge to where I am camped tonight.
How fitting that I am camped by Lonesome Peak tonight all by my self. Not that I am feeling lonely, but I certainly am alone. Nothing wrong with a little solitude.
August 24, 2013
August 24, 2013
Somewhere on the divide to Grand Lake, CO
~31 miles
With
the early bedtime last night due to the storm, I awoke at 5am, a half
hour before my alarm. I decided I might as well get things going and
went through my usual routine getting on trail at 6:15.
The
hiking today was pretty straightforward nothing particularly exciting
to speak of, but it did give me the opportunity to finish listening to
The Icarus Deception. The basis of the book is that our Westernized
industrial culture has indoctrinated us to be careful not to fly too
close to the sun, lest the wax holding our wings to our backs fall off.
The result being we as a society have gone to the opposite extreme and
are flying far too low, so low that we may crash into the ocean. What
this means in terms of today's world is that we have been taught to fit
in, try not to stand out, and don't draw attention to yourself. Just do
your job, produce more widgets, and receive that steady paycheck. In
contrast, the author Seth Godin, wants us to shun this culture of
complacency and dare to be different. Stand out and be heard, even if
you don't change the world on your first attempt. The key is to keep at
"it" (it being variable depending on your field of interest) and make a
difference to your audience, but don't try to please everyone because
it's not possible without sacrificing your particular art/gift/talent
that only you can bring to the world. Don't be afraid to fail! Just make
sure you try again and again until it works.
It
certainly has me thinking about my own past and future and how I can
apply the knowledge to my life. There are plenty of things that I have
in my mind that I want to do at some point in my life, for example write
and publish a book. I don't know what the topic will be yet, but just
putting something of myself out into the world, exposing a portion of me
to total strangers not knowing whether people will respond to it. Don't
know if you don't try!
Grand
lake is a cool little resort type town with one main avenue (Grand Ave)
with restaurants, shops, and motels. It was a busy place this evening as
I got into town being Saturday and all. I was a me to find a room and
take care of all my town chores so I can get back to hiking tomorrow
morning.
August 23, 2013
August 23, 2013
Before Arapaho Creek to somewhere on the divide
24 miles (+bonus)
Today
was a hell of a day. It started off innocently enough with clear skies
and mild temperatures, but things would not remain that way.
The
fits miles of the day were nice enough, up a little and then down to
the creek before once again ascending to the divide. The trail then
meandered along the divide for a while and I caught up to Bert, who had
left town a little before me yesterday. Just after passing Bert, I
apparently made a wrong turn and ended up going the wrong direction. By
the time I check the GPS I was already 2.5 miles from the trail and
therefore not in a good mood. I made my way back to the trail (2.5 hour
detour total) and proceeded to hike in the correct direction this time.
After another few miles and a decent climb to get back on the divide
after dropping down to get water, ominous looking clouds started to take
over the sky. By this time I was already on an exposed ridge and so did
my best to pick up the pace in order to make it over the high point of
the ridge and back down to lower ground with trees before the excitement
began. It was a tough climb to the lookout on top of the peak at
12,300' but I made it before the weather hit. Not too long into the
descent off the ridge it started to thunder and rain. The rain increased
in intensity off and on and I was drenched in no time. After hiking
another couple miles and dropping more elevation the weather was not
improving and I was getting cold so I decided to set up camp at 5:45.
Way early under normal conditions, but the way things were it was the
smart thing to do. As I lay in my tent the lightning-thunder gap got as
close as 3 seconds away (about 0.6 miles). The rain is still falling as
of 6:50 so I don't think I'll be going anywhere the rest of the night.
There is still an occasional rumble of thunder but the lightning seems
to have moved past. This is the most rain I have seen since the first
week up in Glacier NP. I suppose it was only a matter of time.
August 22, 2013
August 22, 2013
Rabbit Ears Pass to 2 miles before Arapaho Creek
29 miles
After
another subpar, but free, continental breakfast at the motel I packed
up my things and made my way to the the highway. I took the free bus to
the edge of town and proceeded to try to hitch a ride. Within about 5
minutes I had success! The guys name was James and he was in town to
watch the race yesterday. He was on his way to Beavercreek to catch the
next stage as well but was kind enough to take a different route to get
there in order to take me up to Rabbit Ears Pass. He said he had some
hitch hiking karma to repay for the hitching he has done in his world
travels. I think James was about 30 and is taking a year away from
teaching high school to travel and figure out what he wants to do for
work because apparently teaching isn't it.
As
for the hiking, it was a subpar first half of the day. About 3 miles
along the busy CO Hwy 40, followed by another 9 miles along the less
busy Hwy 14, and then a dirt road for the remainder of the day. The dirt
road was actually pretty nice and I am once again in the mountains and
on the divide at 11,350'. Along the way I met a couple of section
hikers. Their names are Rockstar and Medicare Pastor. Rockstar is
probably in her mid-30's, and has previously hiked the PCT. she also
works at VVR in the summer and gets to see and meet lots of the PCTers
as they come through. Medicare Pastor is 72 years young and has section
hiked both the AT and PCT. She is working on the CDT now and hopes to
finish in a couple of years, since she only (ha!) hikes about 400-600
miles per year.
I also started listening to a
book called "The Icarus Deception" by Seth Godin. It is pretty
interesting so far, the topic being the change in what is valued in the
workforce in post-industrial society. More on that as I listen further.
Toward
the end of the day as I climbed higher on a ridge, a thunderstorm was
approaching so I ended up setting up camp at 6:45, about an hour earlier
than I was planning, so I could be safe and dry as the rain, thunder,
and small amount of lightning rolled through.
August 21, 2013
August 21, 2013
Zero day in Steamboat Springs, CO
I
had the luxury of sleeping in this morning until 8am before waking up
naturally and heading to the lobby for the complimentary continental
breakfast. It wasn't anything special but it did save me a trip to a
restaurant as well as money. As I was heading back to my room I bumped
into Bert in the lobby! He arrived after me last night and decided that
he was going to take a zero. With this new information I asked if he
would mind splitting the cost of a room. He didn't have a problem with
it so we secured lodging for the night and went to our respective rooms
to gather our things and go to the new room.
During
the day I was able to get my laundry done, buy food for the next
section, and even pick up a new pair of shoes. My old ones have been
giving me problems, but maybe that's what I get for buying shoes that
were 80% off.
With the USA Pro Challenge
coming through today the town of Steamboat was a little bit crazier than
normal. I wandered through the downtown area (where the race finished)
to check things out and also got to do some great people watching. The
race finally came into town around 4:30 and it was amazing to see the
lead group fly by just before the sprint to the finish.
The
rest of the day was spent watching some TV and catching up on some
current events. Man, what is wrong with the world?! Poison gas in Syria,
another gun related incident at a school, republican still in denial
about climate change... I'm sure glad to be sheltered from the news for
the most part.
Tomorrow it's back to the trail and on towards Grand Lake. Rocky Mountain National Park is only a few days away!
Wednesday, August 21, 2013
August 20, 2013
August 20, 2013
Three Mile Lake Trail to Rabbit Ears Pass
38 miles
I can't remember the last time that I willingly woke up at 4am, but that is exactly what I did this morning. After my usual morning breakfast routine and packing up I was on trail at 4:50am and on my way. After a short downhill and roadwalk to a trailhead I entered the Mt Zirkel Wilderness. As soon as the wilderness began, so did the climbing. It was 3400' elevation gain over about 8 or 9 miles to 11,900'. I was glad to have started early because the morning was a comfortable temperature for the climb. I reached the top of the climb at 8:30, hiked past a few llamas and their owners, and took a break around 9am after about 4 hours and 12 miles of hiking.
Most of the rest of the day was spent hiking along a ridge on the divide and I must say that so far Colorado has been pretty great. I ran into a fair amount of people out and about either for a hiking or backpacking with smiles on their faces as big as the blue sky above and shining like the sun. Around 10am I bumped into a NOBO thru-hiker who was headed to the Mt Zirkel TH for the night to meet his wife and pick up a resupply. I mentioned that I was headed to Rabbit Ears Pass for the night to get into Steamboat Springs in time for dinner and hopefully get some town chores taken care of. He looked up as he did the mental math of how much further it was to the pass and remarked that it was another 23-24 miles (which I was well aware) and also had the gall to say, "I don't think you'll make it." I must admit that I was a bit taken aback by his comment. It was the first time I had come across anyone on the trail who was pessimistic about my ability to do what I aimed to do, let alone another thru-hiker! There wasn't much left to say so we wished each other luck and then headed on in our respective directions. Secretly inside I was fired up. How dare the negative-Nancy naysay my abilities. I mean, what a Debbie-downer. All it really did was stele my resolve to make it to the pass to prove him wrong (not that he will ever know) and to prove to myself that I could in fact do it.
Along the way, around lunc I also ran into a couple of older ladies from Steamboat out for a day hike with beaming smiles and who were incredulous of my journey along the CDT. There was also a mother and daughter with their dog out for a day hike who informed me that there is the USA Pro Cycling Challenge race even taking place in Colorado and one of the stages is even finishing in Steamboat tomorrow! Could be a little bit crazy in town, but it's generally fun to be around big athletic events so it should be interesting. They were also kind enought to give me a couple homemade brownies after hearing about my planned mileage for the day and the trek in general. I thanked them and headed on my way. Once getting to Buffalo Pass another few miles down the trail, the hiking was pretty mellow and easy and I was able to make it to Rabbit Ears Pass by 6:30pm. So HA! I did it!
It took about 20-30 minutes to get a hitch into Steamboat with a couple of guys who rode the stage yesterday, but were driving to Steamboat to watch the finish of the stage tomorrow. I am staying at the Rabbit Ears Motel and even made a stop at the local brewery to try some local brew and food. Delish. Not sure what my plan is for tomorrow, only time will tell!
August 19, 2013
August 19, 2013
Ridge to Three Mile Lake Trail
33 miles
Today was another great day of hiking. Pretty easy hiking most of the day, with a few moderate climbs and descents, but it was easy to get 33 by 7:15.
The big story of the day today was crossing the Wyoming/Colorado border! I am super stoked to have one more state under my belt and am looking forward to the big mountains and big climbs that this state has in store.
I don't know the exact mileage right now, but I believe I also crossed the 1,500 mile mark today which puts me past the halfway point! Crazy! I can remember how melancholy I felt as I crossed the halfway point on the PCT knowing that it was already half over and the countdown to the finish was then to begin. For the CDT I have a rather different feeling. I am very excited to be halfway through the hike and somehow this feels like more of an accomplishment than halfway along the PCT. I think it has something to do with how much more of a challenge the CDT has been for me mentally. I've already had a pretty low point when in Montana, much lower than any point on the PCT, and have overcome that hurdle, however, there is still a long way to go. I'm looking forward to whatever comes next!
Oh man, just took a look at the maps for the rest of the section and realized I only have 37 miles to get to the pass! I thought there was another 52 miles, which would have been two days easy. Now that I know, I am hatching a plan to get to Rabbit Ears Pass before it gets dark so I can hitch into town tomorrow instead of the following day. Looks like it will be an early start for me tomorrow, but I do like a good challenge :)
August 18, 2013
August 18, 2013
Creeklet to ridge
30.5 miles
Today was a good day. Shade was provided by both trees and clouds for most of the day, which kept the heat down, and the trail once again crossed above 10,000' a couple times today. Much of the hiking was along the divide itself and it appears that Colorado is but a hop, skip, and a jump away. It blows me away that it can be so warm here at 10,000' and there is no snow in sight. It is a stark contrast to the Cascade Range, many of which have glaciers that remain on their flanks or peaks year round.
I decided not to push hard today since there is no real reason to get anywhere by a certain time. I set up camp at 7pm and am enjoying a longer time in camp than usual. It's quite nice to relax while on trail and have a little extra time in camp before it gets dark.
I just remembered that this weekend is the spectacular Asai campout at Lost Lake! Oh how nice it would have been to make it this year. Between the wine tasting, potluck, as well as kayaking on the lake, swimming, fishing, picking huckleberries, and maybe a little day hike, there is a good time to be had by all. Perhaps next year I'll get to enjoy it once again.
But I digress... On to Colorado!
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